Spring is here, so it’s time to add some color to your outfits. When it comes to showing off your color collection, it’s hard to beat tie-dye. For Westerners, tie-dye started in the 60s with the hippie movement. The image synonymous with tie-dye remains the classic rainbow t-shirt with the swirling pattern, probably worn by some long-haired, bearded dude with a forehead band and some Lennon specs. You know the one. As is often the case though, this wasn’t really the start, so let’s take a quick tour through the history of tie-dye.
The Beginning
Tie-dye techniques actually started nowhere near the 60s, and nowhere near the United States. We can’t pinpoint the exact origin, as fabrics generally don’t hold up too well over millennia. We know from paintings and writing though, that tie-dye was practiced in India around 4,000 B.C.
Tie-dye just refers to any form of resist dyeing, which involves adding dye to fabrics after using knots, threads, or other techniques to prevent the dye reaching certain parts of the fabric, creating different patterns in the process. In ancient India they were called Bandhani, from the Sanskrit bandh (to tie). The scarves and other textiles they created were often associated with love, and worn or given at weddings. This tradition has persevered, with Bandhani patterns still a big part of the culture in Western India, and seen all over the world.
The Oldest Examples
The oldest surviving examples of tie-dyed fabrics are from China and Peru, where people were making them from around the 5th century. Berries, flowers, and other plant substances were used for the dye, and in China the practice was known as Shibori. It was actually banned for a time, by the Song dynasty from the 10th century, due to its extravagance.
On the other side of the world, in Peru, they were employing tie-dye techniques of their own, called Amarra. Their designs are recognizable for having squares, circles and lines in a grid pattern. Important public figures and deities are often shown in paintings wearing tie-dyed clothing.
Global Prominence
Shibori may have originated in China, but it gained fame as an art form in Japan, from around the 8th century. Increasingly complex designs were made with traditional methods like tying or sewing, they also used wax patterns as resists. Another technique was to fold the fabric, and clamp it between wooden blocks with carvings on. It was banned in Japan for a time too, for the same reason as in China. Other South-Asian countries also engaged in the practice, including Laos, Thailand, and Indonesia, where it’s known as Jumputan.
Over in Africa, the process is believed to have been first adopted centuries ago in West Africa, thanks to indigo pits in Nigeria. Wrapping stones or seeds during the tying helped them to make their designs. In this part of the world, the technique is known as Adire. As with almost everywhere, tie-dye garments are still being made there today.
The West Cottons On
Thousands of years later, they finally picked up on the idea in North America. It was first demonstrated near the start of the 20th century, but initially it wasn’t fashionable, it was used only as a cheap way to make clothing and decorate homes, especially during the Great Depression.
Then the 60s happened. Ken Kesey claims to have brought it into the limelight when he and his Merry Pranksters poured enamel-based paint into a pond and placed a white t-shirt on top. This might not technically be tie-dying, but the pattern was similar. What’s certain is that musicians and cultural icons like Janis Joplin were instrumental in bringing tie-dye designs into the mainstream, and making the fashion as popular as it was. Not only was it a cheap way to make interesting clothing, it was also seen as a perfect representation of the breakaway from the repression of the 50s.
Back at the Top
Tie-dye shirts went in and out of popularity over the next few decades, but during that time they went from being clothing of the rebellious masses, to more chic and upmarket. Where once we saw them hanging out of a VW camper or at rock festivals, now they’re on the catwalk. Designer tie-dye appeared, modeled by a range of celebrities, more art than utility. Modern tie-dye is characterized by advanced techniques, more varied fabrics like rayon, and softer color schemes.
Since the pandemic, it’s back, big time. Justin Bieber is making tie-dye hoodies, Nicole Richie has her tie-dye tote bag, half of Hollywood are wearing tie-dye dresses, and pretty much anything else you can think of. Whenever it seems like we’ve seen the last of it, it comes roaring back into fashion.
Maybe it’s so perennial because of its vibrancy, or because of the array of different results you can get from the combination of colors and techniques. It might also be because it’s fun to do yourself. Tie-dying is a brilliant group activity with family, friends or colleagues- you can learn something, have a great time, and you get a lovely souvenir to boot.
Whether you make them or buy them, there aren’t many better looks to welcome in the spring sunshine.
If you want to get in on the act, check out Wordans’ spectacular range of tie-dye shirts, hoodies, and more. If you want to try making them yourselves, we have top-quality blank white t-shirts for the best prices. To see everything in action, head over to our Instagram page, @wearewordans.
